While I’m not a surfer, I’ve always had a fascination with the sport. The mystical side of being in the ocean, the raw physicality of the sport, and the counter-culture and sub-culture of people who surf.
Here’s a list of some of my favorite books about surfing.
Tapping the Source is the classic surfer novel. Kem Nunn more or less invented the genre.
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The Dogs of Winter might be my favorite. Kem Nunn does surfer noir like nobody’s business.
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Here’s a look at the dark underbelly of surfer culture, set in Hawaii’s North Shore.
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Here’s a more positive view — the story of Eddie Aikau, Hawaiian hero.
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Here’s some other ideas:
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Get great book recommendations from The Hawaii Project – Finding Better Books
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Get great book recommendations from The Hawaii Project – Finding Better Books
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Get great book recommendations from The Hawaii Project – Finding Better Books
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Get great book recommendations from The Hawaii Project – Finding Better Books
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Get great book recommendations from The Hawaii Project – Finding Better Books
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Get great book recommendations from The Hawaii Project – Finding Better Books
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Enjoy!